New leaf springs question

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Blue~Go
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Re: New leaf springs question

Post by Blue~Go »

I think the key is that it would have an important effect on the rear overhang, because the rear overhang hangs out so far behind the rear axle. So sure, the front might lower slightly, but that doesn't take away from the concept that the LONG overhang is going to rise, and that's where we need it (in fact it may make the tail rise more).

Does it have to be done? No. Will it have enough effect to make it work it? Dunno. But I don't see where the front reacting would take anything away from the rear overhang rising (and it might add). That end of the see-saw is longer.

If I'm wrong on this, please correct me.
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Scott
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Re: New leaf springs question

Post by Scott »

Sorry, we're talking about two different things. 1) the vertical position of the rear axle and, 2) the subsequent change of vehicle ride height (at extreme opposite ends like the bumpers).

I read something earlier in this thread and just wanted to say that an inch of adjustment in the rear spring perch does not result in an inch of adjustment in the spacing between the axle housing and the frame/bump stop).

So if you move the more ryde an inch, that moves the axle a half inch. Your description of the effect is correct. It will probably move the rear bumper quite a bit more than a half inch. The vehicle would rotate about the front axle and the front bumper would drop (slightly), if all else remained unchanged.
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sleepy t
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Re: New leaf springs question

Post by sleepy t »

Clay was nice to point out that as in many things, there is a trade-off with ground clearance and vertical clearance.
Blue~Go wrote: January 25th, 2019, 10:04 am Where is the "other" inch you are speaking of? Are you thinking the front? I don't see that as an inch for an inch because the front has comparatively "no" overhang as compared to the back.
The inch I am speaking of is the same inch, but from different perspectives. The perspective from the ground clearance gained looks different from the roof as you approach a low hanging obstruction.

I may understand Scott's comment about the actual increase in height to be half of the adjustment distance due to the connection to the front of the leaf. So, if you raise one end of the leaf up, the opposite end will raise proportionately as they are both attached to the frame, correct? What balances it out, as surely there is a limit? The length of the leaf, distance from the axle, leverage from the added length of MORryde, etc....it's making my head hurt to think about all the forces involved. :? ;)
morry.jpg

All this for an inch or so. Perhaps I'll just use the Chinook, enjoy it and go from there. There's always something else for my squirrel brain to overthink and worry about. :lol:

BTW, Chin, those rubber mats are used in gyms, so you can use them on the floor and create your own 24 Hour Fitness on wheels.
rubber mat.jpg
If you just want to use them to park on, I'm on six layers right now. Gonna try to jump the Chinook off them. :o
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Blue~Go
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Re: New leaf springs question

Post by Blue~Go »

Oh I see, you meant overhead clearance. Now I get it. Somehow that went right "over my head" :lol:

For me, the rear overhang/departure angle is a potential issue much, much more often than overhead clearance (in that sort of situation it's usually width that gets me on a narrow track, not height), so I wasn't thinking about overhead. But if you are trying to get into a specific garage and inch(es) count, maybe it is a key factor.
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sleepy t
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Re: New leaf springs question

Post by sleepy t »

I hear you, Blue. I'm short and maybe that's why I usually don't worry too much about what's overhead. :)

Every vehicle I've lifted helped me enjoy much more terrain than before the lift. Even a moderate increase in ride height got me safely in and out of significantly more situations. The dismal departure angle of our rigs is one of the trade-offs I've almost accepted. Almost.

Between the undercarriage and the roof ornaments, I'll see what takes more abuse and go from there. If you happen to see an A/C unit and two MAXXair shrouds near something low on the road, you'll know what my decision was.... or should have been. :o
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Blue~Go
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Re: New leaf springs question

Post by Blue~Go »

Don't forget the ladder that loops up over the top :lol:
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TheBluebird
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Re: New leaf springs question

Post by TheBluebird »

Update: Wanted to let you know I had a new leaf spring added to each side, and new gas struts. When they did this work they saw that both Mor-Ryde pads were torn, so they replaced those the following week. The initial work raised my rig 4 inches and the difference with the new Mor-Ryde pads was phenomenal. Before, if I drove slowly over any bump, say a rumble strip, the back end of the rig would come down hard. My dishes would rattle. Dirt roads could NOT be driven on faster than 3-4 MPH if they had ruts, potholes or washboards.

As it happened, after I got the work done, I went down a rutted dirt road. Wow-- it was almost like driving a car. The bumps were so QUIET! I could go a little faster, but most importantly my rig wasn't being shook up. Highly recommend replacing Mor-Ryde pads if you are experiencing a hard ride over bumps, and adding new leafs (leaves?) if your rig sits too low.
Fulltiming in my 2003 Concourse since November 2018.
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Blue~Go
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Re: New leaf springs question

Post by Blue~Go »

Very nice to find out how it turned out.

It would be very interesting to see a photo of your rear leafs now with the Chinook sitting down on its wheels. I'd like to see what they added and how it all looks.
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chin_k
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Re: New leaf springs question

Post by chin_k »

I don't remember any strut on the rear suspension... are the gas struts for the front? If it is for the front, I wonder if anyone have a good idea to tell if they are still functional. For small car, I can push the front end down with my hands and see how it bounces, but I don't think I can do that with a rig like the Chinook.
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Scott
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Re: New leaf springs question

Post by Scott »

Thanks for the update, Bird. Glad you're sorted out. Regularly hitting the bump stops is not really a good thing. Good job for addressing the problem and paying attention to the ride, although I'm guessing it was hard to not notice bottoming out all the time.
chin_k wrote: January 26th, 2019, 9:08 pm I don't remember any strut on the rear suspension...
Chin, there are no struts. She's talking about gas shocks. The best way to determine if you need shocks is to do go for a drive. When you go over a deep dip, it should compress, extend, then settle back to normal ride height in one oscillation (maybe 1-1/2 or so). If it bounces, it's under-damped and could benefit from new shocks. Almost all shocks have a gas charge (nitrogen). The compressible gas reservoir accommodates the displacement of the shaft as it enters the shock tube.
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