New leaf springs question

[Blue~Go]

Clay,

You are so right - I never knew that! I have only seen the rubber "shackle" type component (and then only in photos). So since the Sulastic are really only shackle type things, I think they would do even less for lateral motion than the Mor-Ryde.

[chin_k]

You may not be aware of it but the MorRyde system includes an anti-sway bar between the spring holders, so it address both up and down and lateral issues. It is just a straight rod, but I guess the rubber provides the left and right damping action, as well as up and down.

Which part of the MorRyde help with the sway? Besides the rubber "springs," there is a metal bracket that connect the leaf spring to the rubber spring, is that it? I can't see how it going to help with the sway.

[caconcourse]

You may not be aware of it but the MorRyde system includes an anti-sway bar between the spring holders, so it address both up and down and lateral issues. It is just a straight rod, but I guess the rubber provides the left and right damping action, as well as up and down.

Which part of the MorRyde help with the sway? Besides the rubber "springs," there is a metal bracket that connect the leaf spring to the rubber spring, is that it? I can't see how it going to help with the sway.

Here is a picture of the anti-sway bar between the rubber springs.

[chin_k]

I always assume the bar is for structural support of the rectangular brackets. Since there is no transfer of torsion or movement from one side of the suspension to the other side when the vehicle rolls, I don't think there is any anti-sway effect, correct?

[Blue~Go]

I had never seen that bar (I don't have Mor-Ryde). But.... I agree that I'm not sure it would provide any real anti-sway/anti-roll action. The actual anti-sway bar I have is much thicker (even though I went down to a thinner one) It is trying to connect one side of the vehicle to the other to transfer weight (I'm sure there are better ways to explain it). Those metal plates on each side of the rubber don't look very "structural"?

[sleepy t]

I'm a new Chinook owner since December 2018. This is my first RV and also the first post and forum I've joined. Please forgive my naivete and general inexperience, but I just went through something similar in regards to a low rear end.

I purchased the unit over the internet from a dealer in Denton, TX, flew into DFW and drove it 2000 miles to Northern California with several stops in the Southwest. No major problems or surprises along the way other than a leaky valve stem extender and a leaky house water pump. Oh, almost forgot the 50 MPH crosswinds through west Texas with truckers pushing past me and the 80 MPH speed limit as the dust storm light blinded me as it reflected off my white knuckles.

Before flying to Dallas, I had the unit mechanically inspected by a third party and they gave everything the green light with the exception of a few small things and the fact that the shocks look like they were the originals. Oh, did I mention that the rig has 115k on it?

I had asked the dealer and also the mechanic if MORryde was installed, but they gave it an "I don't think so..." answer. When I arrived to pick up the rig, one of the first things I looked at was the suspension. Yup. MORryde. The shear spring on the driver's side was torn several inches and the passenger side was likewise quite stressed after 15 years and 115,000 miles.

After first taking it to a larger RV center for repair and getting a recommendation for a bunch of front end work (Safe-T-Plus, trac bar, Sumo Springs, shocks) and nothing to address the rear end sag, I ended up finding a small business knowledgeable in suspension - with the exception of MORryde. He said that the frowny leafs were okay, but the non-leaking shocks could probably be replaced with better ones. Though he wasn't familiar with the MORryde setup, he contacted the company and got a quick customer service and subsequent YouTube education. The rest of his education I paid for. We discussed several shock options and I took his advice based on experience over Koni's, Bilsteins and others.

New Monroe Magnum RV shocks all around plus two new MORryde Shear springs and the Chinook rides several inches higher in the rear and is much more manageable. I neglected to take a before measurement of the ride height before the shocks and MORryde were replaced, but I would say it's nearly three inches. Though I don't have anything to compare it to other than the old parts, I feel it rides and handles well. It's a huge improvement with no more bottoming out or hard impacts over expansion joints or bumps. I would guess that my initial trip through west Texas wouldn't have been nearly as stressful if those components were functioning as they are now.

@The Bluebird, if you haven't messed around with your leaf springs yet, you may want to try finding someone to replace your MORryde shear springs first. Check out the MORryde website and maybe you can find a dealer/installer that you don't have to educate too much.

I understand the stress of having to question every bump, apron and undulation to determine if you're going to drag something. I've scraped my hose carrier and rear step several times. Part of it may be due to inexperience, but part of it is parts.

[68camaro]

I'm a new Chinook owner since December 2018. This is my first RV and also the first post and forum I've joined. Please forgive my naivete and general inexperience, but I just went through something similar in regards to a low rear end.

I purchased the unit over the internet from a dealer in Denton, TX, flew into DFW and drove it 2000 miles to Northern California with several stops in the Southwest. No major problems or surprises along the way other than a leaky valve stem extender and a leaky house water pump. Oh, almost forgot the 50 MPH crosswinds through west Texas with truckers pushing past me and the 80 MPH speed limit as the dust storm light blinded me as it reflected off my white knuckles.

Before flying to Dallas, I had the unit mechanically inspected by a third party and they gave everything the green light with the exception of a few small things and the fact that the shocks look like they were the originals. Oh, did I mention that the rig has 115k on it?

I had asked the dealer and also the mechanic if MORryde was installed, but they gave it an "I don't think so..." answer. When I arrived to pick up the rig, one of the first things I looked at was the suspension. Yup. MORryde. The shear spring on the driver's side was torn several inches and the passenger side was likewise quite stressed after 15 years and 115,000 miles.

After first taking it to a larger RV center for repair and getting a recommendation for a bunch of front end work (Safe-T-Plus, trac bar, Sumo Springs, shocks) and nothing to address the rear end sag, I ended up finding a small business knowledgeable in suspension - with the exception of MORryde. He said that the frowny leafs were okay, but the non-leaking shocks could probably be replaced with better ones. Though he wasn't familiar with the MORryde setup, he contacted the company and got a quick customer service and subsequent YouTube education. The rest of his education I paid for. We discussed several shock options and I took his advice based on experience over Koni's, Bilsteins and others.

New Monroe Magnum RV shocks all around plus two new MORryde Shear springs and the Chinook rides several inches higher in the rear and is much more manageable. I neglected to take a before measurement of the ride height before the shocks and MORryde were replaced, but I would say it's nearly three inches. Though I don't have anything to compare it to other than the old parts, I feel it rides and handles well. It's a huge improvement with no more bottoming out or hard impacts over expansion joints or bumps. I would guess that my initial trip through west Texas wouldn't have been nearly as stressful if those components were functioning as they are now.

@The Bluebird, if you haven't messed around with your leaf springs yet, you may want to try finding someone to replace your MORryde shear springs first. Check out the MORryde website and maybe you can find a dealer/installer that you don't have to educate too much.

I understand the stress of having to question every bump, apron and undulation to determine if you're going to drag something. I've scraped my hose carrier and rear step several times. Part of it may be due to inexperience, but part of it is parts.

Mor-Ryde also has three pin placements, stock is middle, if you want to gain an inch you could use lower hole I believe....

[Blue~Go]

Welcome, Sleepy! I also drove a long distance to pick up my Chinook in DFW. I guess it's a tradition now

Good info on the Mor Ryde and how replacement improved the sag.

I'm glad this thread came back up because I've been wondering how Bluebird made out at the appointment. I always want to know how the "story" turns out.

[sleepy t]

@68Camaro, I wish I would have seen the pin placement and thought about it before having the shear springs replaced. It wasn't until after I looked at the setup more closely that I realized that perhaps the other holes could be used. Maybe part of the reason I couldn't see what was going on was the fact that it was so low. I don't have the tools or space to do it myself, so I'd have to take it back to my mechanic. Are you certain that it will raise it? If so, that's an easy inch to gain.

[68camaro]

@68Camaro, I wish I would have seen the pin placement and thought about it before having the shear springs replaced. It wasn't until after I looked at the setup more closely that I realized that perhaps the other holes could be used. Maybe part of the reason I couldn't see what was going on was the fact that it was so low. I don't have the tools or space to do it myself, so I'd have to take it back to my mechanic. Are you certain that it will raise it? If so, that's an easy inch to gain.

When I replaced my Mor-Ryde soft shackles I spoke to Mor-Ryde direct to order and as we discussed my sag, they mentioned using the lower pin holes to raise up, ultimately I didn't do it because I already had small block as part of my lift kit for front/back.

I didn't replace the shackles myself so not sure of what it would take to do this, but I would call Mor-Ryde and they can discuss degree of complexity and gain.