New Guy From Oklahoma

Off topic, tall tales, general chit-chat.
Barrera
Posts: 17
Joined: August 23rd, 2019, 2:35 pm

New Guy From Oklahoma

Post by Barrera »

Inspired by recent posts from Flame and idled by a certain pandemic, I decided now was a good time to say, "Hello!" and "thank you for all of the good tips!"

I began stalking the site in August 2019 when my wife and I purchased a 1995 Concourse with 59,000ish miles and in fair shape. It really needs some TLC but we liked the idea of the size (maneuverability) and looks of the Chinook.

We finally got to try it out two weekends ago at Lake Murray near Ardmore, Oklahoma and there's no better way to find issues than sitting lakeside when the rain and wind force you to stay inside. Oh boy. We knew the outside was sun-bleached with faded stripes and oxidization in the white gelcoat but I'm not a stickler on the cosmetics (not that I wouldn't appreciate a creampuff!). We'd also started a to-do list of things that needed to be fixed but we learned so much more by taking it out.

If you've read this far, your self-isolation is already driving you to madness so a few more lines won't hurt you too badly. Not in any particular order of priority (yet), we need to:
* Replace the rear door. The bottom hinge-side of the door is broken and it takes an Herculean effort to get the door smashed into its opening.
* Remove and replace broken exhaust manifold bolts in the rear of the heads on both sides of the engine. I cobbled together a bracket to cinch down the right side manifold but the left side will require removal and resurfacing of the manifold followed by drilling out at least two broken bolts.
* Get taillights, reverse lights and lights at the front top (amber) and rear top (red) to work. The bulbs are OK; I suspect it's due to the Chinook wiring design blowing some unfound fuse (no alternate Chinook-only fuse box in the '95).
* Fix the under hood AC. It's definitely low on refrigerant so a leak must be found and corrected.
* Replace the leaking waste gate valves. :mrgreen:
* Rebed / reseal the two big parallelogram windows. With all of the rain and wind we found that the windows leak. Hmm... No Bueno.
* Rebed / reseal everything on top. It's not a "need to" necessarily right now but I'd sure feel better getting it done.
* Clean evidence of lack of seaworthiness of our little dog.

There's more I'm sure but if you're not tired of reading by now, rest assured that I'm tired of typing. It's time to crawl around under the drivers' side frame rail in search of clues for lighting fixes. As I start on the fix journey, I'll likely post questions. I appreciate everything I've read so far. Your willingness to share your knowledge is a blessing for guys like me!
1995 Concourse
chin_k
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Re: New Guy From Oklahoma

Post by chin_k »

It is a blessing for us too, with your recent posts. Keep up posted on your tasks :)
2000 Concourse dinette, on 2000 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis (built in 1999)
Flame
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Re: New Guy From Oklahoma

Post by Flame »

Dang, I don't think I have inspired anybody in my whole life! Welcome to the tribe from deep east Texas! Glad you found us. I'm sure glad they took me in a couple of years ago. Wife and I take our "Land Shark" up into Oklahoma about 4 times a year. Usually around Pocola on the Arkansas border near Fort Smith. The wonderful folks on this site have saved me thousands of dollars and much much time saved on projects. Ask lot's of questions. They have lot's of answers!!
1998 Concourse V-10 Triton....AKA...Land Shark
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Scott
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Re: New Guy From Oklahoma

Post by Scott »

Hi Barrera. You're funny, man. Thanks for the post, and welcome to the forum. In your to-do list, I've done all of those repairs except the Ford air con. I'd be happy to help if you have any specific questions.

I'd recommend headers rather than deal with resurfacing the OE manifolds. The biggest part really is labor, so I chose to go big and spend the thousand bucks on a full kit. I got the Thorley kit from Summit Racing. It's comprehensive with great build quality, plus you get a crossover pipe and ceramic coating. All you need is a tube of anti seize, a bunch of tools, and no kids around to hear the swearing.
1994 Premier
chin_k
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Re: New Guy From Oklahoma

Post by chin_k »

Scott wrote: March 31st, 2020, 3:20 pm All you need is a tube of anti seize, a bunch of tools, and no kids around to hear the swearing.
Would you change your suggestion with a lady Chinook owner? My rig's previous owner was a lady, for example.
2000 Concourse dinette, on 2000 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis (built in 1999)
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Scott
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Re: New Guy From Oklahoma

Post by Scott »

Funny! My rig was previously owned by two awesome Women. If they were under the rig, they would have been swearing more than me. So yes, I'm going to stick with my initial suggestion.
1994 Premier
Barrera
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Joined: August 23rd, 2019, 2:35 pm

Re: New Guy From Oklahoma

Post by Barrera »

Thank you all for the warm welcome! I'll definitely take you up on asking for help.

Scott, I'm very tempted to go the headers route. I'm a little unsure about some of the extra EGR stuff that connects to the rear of the manifolds. However, I am well-versed in the art of colorful english and no tender ears are close by.

As time and funds permit I'll start documenting progress and asking questions. I'm excited to begin the journey!
1995 Concourse
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sm350bl
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Re: New Guy From Oklahoma

Post by sm350bl »

Welcome to the site! Sounds like you have a good indication of what needs goings though and that can be half the battle itself. I found this bunch to be extremely helpful to helping me get through some heater trouble shooting and general figuring when I first got my rig a year ago. Looking forward to updates on your to do list.
Rich
2000 Concourse 7.3L Powerstroke 4X4
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Scott
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Re: New Guy From Oklahoma

Post by Scott »

Barrera wrote: March 31st, 2020, 6:50 pmScott, I'm very tempted to go the headers route. I'm a little unsure about some of the extra EGR stuff that connects to the rear of the manifolds.
Yeah, good point. I feared the same thing initially. The EGR turned out to be easy. The air injection, however, gave me a little trouble, but not terrible. I should point out that my crossover Y-pipe was also cracked. Welding it could have worked but my crack was right at the flange, so it would not have been worth the effort. That made the header kit even more appealing.
1994 Premier
Barrera
Posts: 17
Joined: August 23rd, 2019, 2:35 pm

Re: New Guy From Oklahoma

Post by Barrera »

Scott wrote: March 31st, 2020, 3:20 pm I'd recommend headers rather than deal with resurfacing the OE manifolds. The biggest part really is labor, so I chose to go big and spend the thousand bucks on a full kit. I got the Thorley kit from Summit Racing. It's comprehensive with great build quality, plus you get a crossover pipe and ceramic coating. All you need is a tube of anti seize, a bunch of tools, and no kids around to hear the swearing.
Scott,

I am leaning more to getting headers for my Chinook. Is this the header kit you picked up from Summit Racing?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dte-214y-fi3-c

In the description it reads that this is for "use with the E40D transmission only". I'm not really sure if that's the transmission in my 1995 Concourse so I'm still researching that part.

Also, did you find any particular string of colorful language more effective for this job? I want to be prepared when the time comes.

Thanks!
1995 Concourse
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